The last Anglo-Saxon King’s Body: Waltham Abbey & Church of the Holy Cross
Anytime the London temperature climbs above 25 degrees, I know I must escape the city for a place of greater nature; away from the constant refraction of sun beaming down on the city’s pedestrians from glass-embezzled buildings. Living in the North East of London places me on one direct train and a short jaunt to Waltham Abbey and Gatehouse. Here I found myself in repose with a sketchbook, pencils, a shoddy digital camera, a backpack full of easy snacks, and my partner. It was my first time visiting Waltham Abbey despite being in such close geographic proximity to the site, yet the quiet grounds felt both familiar and expectant of my arrival. The familiarity might be due to the quirky fact that Waltham Abbey has a twin town in Germany, called Hörstel, which reminds me of the many quaint and quiet villages I’ve stayed at in Germany, Austria, and Czechia throughout my summers.
I was immediately drawn in by the 11th-century Church of the Holy Cross & St Lawrence, which looked a bit misplaced, bordering a main road through the town. This church has remained in service for nearly 14 centuries and is actually not the only church located at the Waltham Abbey site. However, the church is just the entrance to the grounds, which offer many ducks and geese, willow trees, and small fields of green. The grounds also include a cemetery, gatehouse, post-medieval dwelling, and bridge that all survived since their construction in the 14th century.
As an enthusiast of dark, ominous, strange, and obscure history, I could not resist the excitement of the cemetery and its mystique. Waltham Abbey is known as the last resting place of King Harold II, and a memorial dedicated to the last Anglo-Saxon King of England was constructed to commemorate his reign and contributions to the church. It is rumoured that after the battle of Hastings in 1066 where King Harold II perished, he was buried at the church here. This has not been confirmed through evidence, but written testaments of the time state that the King’s mistress identified his body and brought him back with her to Waltham. Since the church underwent numerous restorations, additions, and extensions over time, King Harold’s body was supposedly moved. Theories of where his body is now are still just theories. It is something of a mystery where his corpse really rests and whether it has been the forgetful nature of time or the destructive calculation of thieves which has led to this confusion.
Other than the unsolved mystery of where King Harold’s final resting place really is, there are also accounts of King Harold’s father, Harold, being cured of paralysis at the church. After praying here as a devout man of faith, a miracle occurred and Harold was no longer paralysed, making Waltham Abbey his favourite place. He cared for it so much that he extended the church grounds providing architectural advancements, and even diverted his march from Stamford Bridge (defeating the Vikings in 1066) to Hastings so that he could visit Waltham and pray.
Architecturally, there are obvious artistic differences from church extensions that reflect the movements of the medieval period. Still visible are many original features and decor of the original Saxon Church style, such as the tall triangular-headed entrance doors. From the Norman period, stylistic choices also remain such as the decorated patterns carved into stonework atop the pointed doorways. Later elements of the Gothic architectural period, from the 12th-16th centuries, show in the Grotesques found above the church’s doorways and windows. At Waltham Abbey, the grotesques are of exaggerated, mythical human expression rather than fantastical creatures like those seen at Florence Cathedral.
Overall, the Waltham Abbey grounds, with its church, gatehouse, and flowing ponds, is a wondrous and quiet place to reflect on the complexities of medieval life, miracles of religious devotion, and the mysteries of a once restful yet now lost King’s corpse. I sketched gleefully while sprawled in a field of grass overlooking the top floors of the church, the rest of which being cloaked by the dense foliage beneath. Unbothered by any other patrons, and immersing myself in an imaginary Anglo-Saxon battle preparation, I continued to wonder: What did happen to King Harold II’s body? And what would he think of England today, with all its red-double-decker bus glory, nearly 1400 years since his death?
Sources:
“History of Waltham Abbey Gatehouse and Bridge.” English Heritage, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/waltham-abbey-gatehouse-and-bridge/history/. Accessed 14 Aug. 2024.
“Saxon Churches.” Anglo Saxon Churches, www.anglosaxonchurches.co.uk/intro.html. Accessed 14 Aug. 2024.
“Understanding British Churches: Definitive Guide - Odyssey Traveller.” Understanding British Churches | Definitive Guide - Odyssey Traveller, www.odysseytraveller.com/articles/understanding-british-churches/. Accessed 14 Aug. 2024.
“Waltham Abbey Gatehouse and Bridge.” English Heritage, www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/waltham-abbey-gatehouse-and-bridge/. Accessed 14 Aug. 2024.
